ABS filament not sticking to my glass bed

I am trying to print ABS on my Ender 5 Pro, which I upgraded with the Creality official glass bed. My ABS isn’t sticking and I tried using a glue stick to add glue, but it still isn’t working. What do you do to print ABS on glass beds?

Hello Darrick,

I Personally use Elmer’s Purple water washable Glue stick.
We don’t currently carry them at 3DPC,
You can get a 3 pack Part#61667 40G tubes for $9.99 CAD at Staples.ca

Sorry, I misled you. This problem and the PTFE tube popping out were related. I opened up my hot end piece and looked, and found ABS filament blockage within. The blockage likely prevented more ABS filament from coming out, so the filament wouldn’t stick to the hot bed and wrapped around the filament, giving me the illusion the filament was sticking. The blockage in the hot end probably pushed the PTFE tube out the other end.

So I cleaned out the blockage, reattached and is printing now. However, the coupling at the top of the hot end for the PTFE tube cannot be unscrewed from the hot end, leading me to believe I will sadly have to replace that entire component. Is there a better full metal one I can replace it with, so I can print ABS and PETG?

1 Like

I use a Triangle Dragon. I did order a high temp thermistor (450 C) to use with it. I also added a Bondtech clone DD. The biggest hurdle was finding a DD fan mount system that works on the the 5 Pro. I am still in the testing phase but there are a couple of decent options.

I personally use a small spray bottle filled with acetone and about 5-10g of abs filament. The filament dissolves. I use this for bed adhesion and it works for all filament that I use ABS/PLA/PETG and honestly hasn’t failed me in 5 years. Best to apply when the bed is up to tempurature.


I am having issues printing larger items. All of my 10cm and under pieces have been great. Once I try to go larger the pla won’t stick right from the beginning. I’ve tried resetting the bed, adjusting the two temp etc. I am not thrilled with putting glue on my magnetic mat. Do I need a different build plate surface ? Or a different magnetic mat ? Things were going so well and now … sigh

acetone plus pieces of abs filament. No water ?

No Water, I’ve never heard of anyone using water mixed in with it. The acetone evaporates quickly which means the spray dries near instantly when applied to a heated bed.


The official glass bed from Creality did wonders for my printing:

1 Like

I’ve never had to use glue on a magnetic bed. Having said that, I was always having problem at the outer edges too. It turned out the bed was high in the center, so I’d get great adhesion where I printed most of my small stuff, but poor adhesion out at the edges.

I placed a straight edge (a level actually, but a ruler would do) across my bed in the middle and back-lit it. Sure enough, you could clearly see light getting under it out toward the edges.

For a while, I put strips of aluminum foil along the edges of my build plate, under the magnetic mat to raise the sides slightly.

Currently I’m experimenting with glass which has been great with respect to being level but brings its own issues.

1 Like

I Print Standard Line ABS at:
Prusa MK2, MK3S 250C nozzle and 100C bed Lexan Enclosure boxes
Ender 3 Pro 250C nozzle and 100C bed Official Creality (Pizza Bag ) enclosure
Ender 5 Plus 250C nozzle and 100C bed Foam Core sides w/dynamat insulation, Lexan top and Lexan Barn doors

I Print Sakata ABS-E at:
Prusa MK2, MK3S 255C nozzle and 105C bed Lexan Enclosure boxes
Ender 3 Pro 250C Nozzle and 110C bed Official Creality (Pizza Bag ) enclosure
Ender 5 Plus 250C Nozzle and 100C bed Foam Core sides w/dynamat insulation, Lexan top and Lexan Barn doors

1 Like