Edit: bah god, this became a wall of text. Sorry for that.
What’s your experience printing in multiple colours? I imagine the specification is done in the slicer but I was wondering how easy/intuitive it is. I’m also curious as to the quality of the different colours (especially if there is mixing of them involved or filaments from different sources).
I havent done much yet. I’ve done the test print, a poop chute for the printer with 2 colours (it purges out a shoot on the back, so you dont necessarily need a prime tower) and a small part for another printer and what I can say is you want as few changes as possible, just like with other single nozzle multiple filament systems as the amount of purge with every change isnt insignificant. So I try to stick to only a handful of changes per print. To put it another way, if you do a lot of colour changes, expect to waste as much as you actually mean to print in purge material, though once again, thats the problem with all the other multi filament systems of this type too like the ERCF or MMU2s.
How did the filaments stick together? Fine. Any filament that doesnt have some chemical reason to not stick sticks just as you would expect. I’ve tried both some PLA I got with the printer as well as from filaments.ca and its been fine as expected. I imagine Ill go back to my usual 3dp generic transparent PLA when I finish a roll. I have yet to try different materials (like many of these systems soft filaments dont really work in this), but I do plan to try poly propylene as I imagine its the closest to flexible filament that can work.
How do I do it in the slicer? Their slicer is based on Prusa slicer/Super slicer (all above board, as these are open source projects and so is Bambu Studio, and they even have added step file support which was ported back from Bambu studio into Prusa slicer). In essence this system is the same as prusa slicer where you can colour triangles, flat surfaces, layers etc.
Is there a remote downloading/monitoring app like Mainsail or Fluidd? I’ve converted my Spare Parts Printer to Klipper and I wouldn’t consider another printer without the tuning capabilities of Klipper and the remote control of Mainsail/Fluidd (Octoprint just doesn’t cut it).
This is where its sort of weird, so the printer has a ton of unique auto calibration features, but its proprietary firmware that you don’t actually have very fine control over.
If that sounds wild to you, its not as bad as it sounds there, because it actually supports input shaper (it really couldn’t afford not to at the voron speeds it prints). More than that though, it also supports pressure advance, and it tunes both of these. It tunes input shaper once when you first turn it on, and you can retune it if you say move the machine. It also tunes pressure advance using some funky lidar like sensors at the start of each print (though you can disable this so it doesnt do it every time))
As someone who has used klipper before, this is both so much better, but also kinda not in that it seems to work really well, and its sure great I never have to dial in individual filaments anymore (biggest downside to klipper and one of the biggest draws to me), but then also, I want a manual override in the event the sensor gets it wrong. There might even be a way, and I vaguely recall seeing that you could send over a command via gcode to manually enter a value, but certainly something they didnt intend for you to mess deal with on any regular basis, which I suppose is somewhat fair as the sensor array seems to work well.
I also realize I didnt even cover your app question and to answer that, they have Bambu Handy which is a fairly minimalistic app that lets you monitor prints through its built in Camera, do basic functions like stopping prints, telling prints to continue when it detects a bad first layer with the sensor array, switching filaments with the AMS or downloading/viewing the timelapses recorded by the camera.
What are the “relatively small software bugs”?
There’s a few littered around, but I’ve found non show stopping so far. Thinking of examples is kinda hard on the spot. I guess the slicer is missing a refresh model from file button which is annoying. Currently the soft limits on the various axis isn’t implemented, there aren’t fine tuned controls to allow for one click filament changes without the AMS plugged in so you have to tap the reverse extrude button a few times at only 10mm a tap.
Things like that.
I should also mention that the app does communicate through the cloud when you aren’t connected locally, so its a positive in that you can monitor everywhere without having to set up a vpn or anything, but some may see that level of connectivity as a negative as well so ymmv.
Based on the prices you’ve quoted, I’d consider them “fair” - not too high, not too low for a printer like this.
I think there is at least one other person who has bought the X1C, it will be interesting to hear your thoughts over time.
Oh yea, I certainly hope to get my moneys worth out of it. I’ve been pleased so far. I think the price is honest better than just fair though. When you think of a printer like a voron which costs more but does less and you have to build it, and a prusa which costs more and does way less (but at least has decent support), it seems honestly good. Not cheap certainly as its a pretty chunk of change, but compared to others? Good.
I actually saw a lot of people speculating thinking its wild they made it for this price like they must be taking a loss, but given it only has 4 steppers in it (3 lead screws connected via a belt save it extra motors), I can see how it was designed reasonably for the price. A lot of engineering for manufacturing went into this printer.