Cr10spro what better Mother board can be used?

Hi new here, having the same issue and more
been to hell with my cr10spro vr1

can anybody suggest another motherboard so i can just rebuild this machine with different brains? also have a heated chamber and i have made water cooling system for extruder stepper and the ssr (so something better that i can run those things maybe octoprint too ? basically i dont trust the creality controls any more and i need to print high temp and large format asap
im savy with soldering and fabricating , i do my own circuit board repairs and such

the below is over the last 2 yrs kinda my log on it

cr-10s pro (bad unit log) arrived with broken fan shroud , the( 3d printed air scoop part ) . the aluminum metal bed plate was warped bad , i put it on a glass table it rocked back and forth. could not get a good bed mesh. it was all over the map, then i realized the gantry was missing steps and would not hold level…so calibration was inconsistent and prints were bad, nozzle scraping brand new bed kinda bad. the sensor would get incorrect readings when auto leveling and z home too,

i adjusted to many different heights but it still crashed the bed scraping the coating many times. sensor got worse over time until to work it had to almost be touching the print bed (.60)when nozzle was at .20. more than five times firmware would just get stuck some times while warming up , some times in the middle of printing, it stuck just sitting there with nozzle melting the print. the screen frozen. firmware doesn’t work when plugged into laptop with blue cable, cant run the machine without using memory card. (really dont like this)i cant just send a print. The filament sensor was scraping the incoming material. the filament leaver arm was not assembled properly or missing spacers and or washers as it was binding on tension spring. the pivot or guide arm screw was being stripped out causing filament arm to scrape hard against the base, this caused print to fail at the drive gears. this caused my nozzle to be burnt ,stuck and clogged , being burnt caused damaged Capricorn tube. smelled electrical fire , turned off printer in the middle of a 3hr print. opened up bottom to find the SSR relay burnt and melted off mounting plate and hanging loose .

i have spent many hours and moneys to try and make work and am upset. I replaced warped bed with magnetic spring steel bed(wham bam), used my FlashForge Creator pro to print motor blocks to raise gantry motors up to have lead screws stick out the top , added pulleys and belt to top of lead screws to make them in sync and stop gantry from drooping and motors loosing steps. I threw out original bed sensor and replaced it with a new sensor mount and new BLtouch sensor. replaced firmware with TinyMachines3d version firmware to run the BLtouch sensor and add Thermal Runaway Protection. disassembled filament drive system and take to machine shop, drilled out stripped/damaged pivot mounting hole and repaired damaged threads, i used machinist to make new axle pin with bigger screw threads to fix stripped out threads. made new combination of screw and spacer to stop the binding of the tension spring. printed a ball Bering guide to stop filament scraping the sensor, replaced Capricorn tubing as it was stuck inside original burnt nozzle. replaced orib
inal nozzle with Micro Swiss nozzle. 2nd Bltouch (it destroyed one for dinner) , from calibrated press to start print machine looses z steps (not mechanical) causing crash to bed once print starts. this i could never fix , spent 2 weeks with AJ at tny3d , we never fixed it did everything 3 times over, only way i can even try starting prints is way off the deck and ramping down to the bed manually… replaced original SSR with new 100 amp one. didnt solve it testing the ssr is working , but the cause of the problem, is mosfet on motherboard were not soldered well so one is just falling off , this is why it almost caught fire as when mosfet fails, when it does it fails the SSR into the on power position . replaced the ao5d14 mosfet on the mb and as of now bed just starts heating as soon as machine powers on same as before. no control of heat bed. so very frustrated.

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Ive looked into this briefly. The biggest hinderance you have is the ribbon cable. Youll either have to pin out the ribbon cable and identify each wire to then attach to another board, or re-wire most of the printer. Which sounds hard, but since lots of printers dont use a daughter board and work fine it isnt all that complicated. Alternatively i just though now, what if you got another daughter board, and use that to pin out the ribbon cable. Then your only issue will be mounting it, but there are numerous standoffs on thingiverse for different board you could glue to the frame, or have sitting externally.

I too have found my cr10spro v1 to be a bit of a lemon, but my issues are more hotend related.

Firmware wise in a few weeks i can have a crack at redoing the stock firmware. Initally i had issues with tiny machines firmware but that was a user error on my part with my bltouch wireing.

As for the heated enclosure i havent played around with that but again can be done in firmware so long as you have compatable parts (heater and enclosure).

Let me know if your going to pull the trigger on this and ill help out where i can.

@SpaceMoose you may be interested in seeing if this goes anywhere.

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Thanks @Dr.Marvin - I’m planning to try driving my enclosure from by rPi and Octoprint but if that’s a bust I’ll look at what marlin has available.

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Thanks Dr. “M”
…for your reply and detailed info, i feel you on the hot end issues , i have had many more issues and fixes i have not mentioned here, i am confident with the hands on portion and will de-pin de-code the ribbon cable and rewire from there,

what mother board can you suggest ?

I’ve only a little experience coding in marlin, cura and basic Arduino projects a while back, while confident enough, but coding is severe torture with my lexdysia + ADHD

that being said i dont mind wiring to the moon, but i just want the least painful experience on the software side of things.

what (if any) m boards are inherently compatible with the components we have ?
any issues i should watch out for ?
suggestions please

Budget: no limit
Things i think i need ???
the mb (want the best performance also future proofing too (high temp environment in there )
Display: (fine with the one that’s there , willing to replace if need be… (function over form on this one)
wireless yes please (hate sd cards)
exhaust fans ,
water pump
octoprint would be cool
24v correct?
5 steppers?

Thanks bud

Ill have to think and see what may be the best option for the board.

I also need to double check but i thought there was an interdace issue with the screen, but that may be the stock board has issues interfacing with other screens. So let me get back to you on that.

Wireless wise it may be best to go with a rasberry pi and run octoprint on it. Ive tried wireless cards with no luck on my end, but that could be user error. I will be attempting to use one again inna bit just to prove i can make it work, though supposedly they are a bit buggy and slow at the best of times.

Overall im getting the vibe you want to max out what you can do with the frame of what youve got. I got into 3d printing with some of that mindest.

Im getting better and better with firmware, but it is a bit of a trial and error thing. Im happy to help get it going for you when we have a list of the specs we’re working with.

To get you started though i would get a few buck converters, a rasberry pi, and a hotend that fits your budget. I modded in a clone e3d v6, and feel it works well. If money is no object you could look into a legit e3d v6, or their new Revo, or something from slice engineering. Point being for a hotend, you will want an ALL METAL to deal with the higher temps.

Actually ill still be looking into this, but a voron type printer may be a better idea, dollar for dollar.

Also the Revo i dont believe has hardened nozzles yet so probabilly stay away from that at this time.

Here is a thingiverse link to get started with.

The skr 1.3 is the same hole dimmensions as the 1.4 and the 1.4 turbo i believe. The 1.4 turbo has the faster chip, and options for more thibgs like rgb, wifi and an eeprom chip. Im still looking around for what would be the best bet for what you want but i dont think it would be a bad contender.

Thanks so much ,

ya i want to max this unit out, but cant go hog wild …for now…
im fine with my custom built hot end setup.
i want to use as much components i already have
budget… is to replace m board , and any needed additional stuff.

great link… thanks, good info there . i spent the night looking , here is my buy list , need to pull trigger asap , customers are awaiting

(size under the hood is tight so I like the boards size and especially like the big heat sink on the board, i will make a custom heat exchanger to suck the heat off that chunk of aluminum since i already have cooling water running in there for the ssr it will be easy to add watercooled drivers…(with the heated chamber this makes sense )

replace display with :
+TFT35 E3 V3.0.1 Screen, i dont want to mess with compiling the old touch screen, it was already buggy out the box and i dont trust it , and i see its kinda odd (firmware wise) seems this display is suggested to pair with the MINI E3

any reflection on the above ,and any additions would be greatly appreciated…

im currently using the crap out of my fforge Creator pro to prototype my designs, so i will design and make any custom mounts and or adaptor’s needed

i need my big build volume back and would like to get my robots back on respected missions ,
cr-10spro (abs and other high temp… duty)
flash f cp(2 color PLA/ TPU…duty)

again thanks for your support

water cooling was soldered together from plumbing scraps , heat paste came from grandpa’s jar of anti-seze left over from the airforce :slight_smile: not shown but i have also insulated the feed lines , its powered with a fish tank pump , goes into 5 gallon bucket of water , looks a little crude, but works great.

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Wow tbh i never looked into water cooling but you seem to be on the right track. Also sorry for the delay, i was busy and trying to think of other options that could be considered. Though i did like mks before, im more of a fan of btt now. No particular reasons, but you picked a good choice for your needs. Just make sure you dont short anything out.

A board with integrated drivers is nice and low profile. Though if you cook/fry 1 it cant be swapped in/out. I think for what your wanting to do this board looks like a good fit. I cant comment on if itll drop in or not but im interested in seeing/hearing how that goes for you.

Here is a good guide to check out. BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 Setup Guide - BLTOUCH, NeoPixels - Make 'N' Print

I haven’t read it through in detail, but did like how things are explained for another guide on this site.

As for the screen, @SpaceMoose shared a link to drop in a lcd12864 screen which is prettymuch the same size as the tft 35. There should be a link on that discussion for a printable screen adaptor.

I was a bit concerned about the heated chamber and cooling but i think your doing it right, so long as you dont get any leaks.

If you need help compiling firmware, i can get started on it likley next week.

I actually have ordered the replacement screen and am just waiting for the non-solder connector that will plug right into the motherboard. I’ll be printing the screen enclosure shortly. I suppose I could document the whole process in a thread on this site if it would be of interest…

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Thanks So Much Doc
i had to move on for a bit and just saw your reply today.
i will be ordering up the parts soon, i will loop you in on the rebuild. all issues considered once i could get a print going and not fail…i had this thing doing good for a few runs on larger abs parts , my goal is to get up-to some of carbon filaments. it’s just had so many issues, i could never get to the point of even buying a roll of that stuff… my print set-up is outside here in so-cal … the water cooling while just a brute force system works well …18hr print may change the water temp of the full bucket a few deg. , during the winters i pipe in some heated air from a space heater to pre-soak the printer and chamber to stabilize and homologize the air /solids temps everything. it can get down to the 40’s some nights… once up to temp with the insulated chamber, the heat bed seems to keep the chamber some what stable… she has been down for so long got turned into a drone hanger… lol
stay tuned !