I should have thought of this sooner: when the printer is left powered-off for, let’s say 30 minutes to an hour, when you turn it on, but don’t run it, what temperature(s) does the display show?
When it’s been left sitting for a long time, the bed and nozzle should both have returned to ambient room temperature. Are the temperatures: A) the same? and B) roughly the current room temperature?
They are showing as roughly the ambient temperature of the room (23C - 24C).
If you place your hand on the center of the build plate, does the temperature of the bed go up?
Do the same test by holding the nozzle in your fingers for a minute or two.
I’m just trying to verify that the nozzle thermistor is connected to the nozzle input (and hence, shows up as such on the display) and that the bed thermistor is connected to the bed input.
post pics of that the screen looks like when u power on as well as a pic of the break out board that everything plugs into
@ScryptoNoob You should contact tech support as well. If there is a defective part they will or should replace it. It is a slow process. I would keep exploring where the issue is but avoid voiding the warranty. In my case I ended up spending 500$ in replacement parts and shipping on a 600$ printer.
So went and took some pics. Quadruple checked the wiring and did some test heats. The bed works. The nozzle doesn’t. If I manually set the bed it heats right up with no errors. When I manually set the nozzle temp it doesn’t heat at all, it doesn’t read the temp changes and then errors out with the heating failed msg.
Pics of the break out !
Do you have a volt meter?
The fact that the hot-end temperature is showing room temperature means that the thermistor is working. That leaves either problems with power going to the heater or the heater itself.
Pull the Heat1 connector out. Stick a couple of pins in the end and connect it to a volt meter. Be sure the pins don’t short out our you could damage the controller board or the power supply.
With the meter set to voltage, turn the hot-end heat on. You’ll only have a couple of seconds before it aborts but it should be enough for you to confirm that the cable is delivering 24V.
Also, I don’t know the pin assingments on the black connector (bottom of board), but it looks to me that the connector isn’t in completely on the left. If the power to the heater goes down the left side (and the left-most wire is thick enough for it), then it’s possible that that’s where the break in the power delivery is.
I would agree with Lego, the Thermistor looks good, you are getting the error because the machine is calling for heat but its not seeing the heat raise in an appropriate amount of time. So for safety sake in case there is an electrical issue somewhere its shutting down and throwing an error.
I know its frustrating but its actually doing what its suppose to, its telling you there is a problem. If the machine was bought from us we will absolutely cover under warranty any defective part with the machine. I will stay in the thread anything you need please let me know.
Damn, good eye. I will see if I can get it seated further.
As for volt meter that will be an absolutely last resort. A) I don’t have one and B) I know enough about how to use one to be dangerous lol
I will try to adjust based on the image you sent.
Thanks Jason, I appreciate that. I did purchase it from you.
Hi @ScryptoNoob
No Problem, when you figure out the issue let me know. If you are local and you are out of ideas drop it in an we can have a look at it together.
Jason
This did the trick. I have heat. Now to check and see if this also fixed my Z-axis issue. The plate doesn’t go up and down, like the motor isn’t working. My assumption is it will be taken care of also.
Thanks Lego, ya maniac! I really appreciate you taking the time to help this noob out. <3
Hi ScryptoNoob,
I had the same problem with the Z axis - look at the underside of the printer and check that the Z axis cable is connected and not just stuck to the bottom of the printer with tape. After you assemble the printer and put in the Z axis etc, you need to connect the stepper motor 
That’s exactly what it was. Just a minor oversight in the setup instructions lol It works now but sadly the limiter for raising the platform doesn’t function properly so it just keeps going and mashes the bed into the nozzle. 
The Z axis limit switch is operated by a large screw at the back on the RHS of the Z axis lead screw - check if that is switching the microswitch - I didn’t have to adjust mine, but yours may be out of adjustment.
To adjust the Z-offset screw, manually move the printer to within about .5 mm of the nozzle (farther than you would normally use to print), then put an ohm meter on the Z-limit switch and slowly turn the Z-offset screw until it triggers the limit switch. At this point you should be able to test the homing function without damaging the nozzle or bed.
Once that’s done, and the bed is now sitting at the height it now wants to home to, use the bed levelling knobs under the corners of the bed to raise the bed the appropriate print level with what ever you use to set the initial height (paper, post-it note, feeler guage, etc.). Do this in all 4 corners, then re-check it and repeat until you no longer need to make adjustments.
Any imperfections that remain will be taken care of by the BL-Touch.
Silly question, is BL Touch a physical sensor that I need to purchase and install? If not, will the autohome/levelling functionality work without it?
Yes it is a physical sensor. Maybe it depends on the firmware. There is firmware versions that do the baby stepping and such but do not look for a sensor. Some firmware will look for the sensor not find it and report and error.
Thank you. I definitely do not have one of those.
