You know the big rant made me think to my problem that took ages to track down.
While you are printing is the extruder stepper getting really hot? Not a little but too hot to touch easily. Mine was under extruding and stopping to extrude at the end of the day the stepper was binding because it was so hot.
You mad bro?? Hahahha, jk
Sorry you had such a sh*tty go with it, dang!!
I friggin hope I don’t come into that sort of disaster.
Like I said, I haven’t had to touch a thing really till now. Fingers crossed it stays that way.
Also if theres a better place to rant about shotty printers and the associated woes, I can’t think of it
Hm, I’m not sure tbh
I will start a print now and have a gander
I just finished a 5hr print (it was only about 10mm tall but still) without issue on the SW that still has the og nozzle and ptfe liner
I do not understand having to add the extra 40C now but at least it’s printing again
Order is in for more nozzles. I’ll pick em up tomorrow and go from there
The extra 40C all depends on the magic formulation of the filament. I swear even the dyes they use can change the temperature characteristics in some cases.
One simple test is to spread out a sheet of aluminum foil in an oven and put two cm of each different filament on it, then warm the oven up from cold to 400C and stand there and watch the order in which they melt. If you’ve got an oven thermometer, stick that in there too as a reference.
The 40C I mean is the apparent difference in displayed temp vs actual (as measured by my meter). I don’t mind adding the hear required to get it to run nicely. I just don’t like the fact the the readout is seemingly inaccurate and by quite a margin.
Having said that, I never measures the temp until I had that issue with the one spool. So it very well could have always been this way.
It’s a dang mystery to me at this point, but it’s printing. So I’m gonna roll with the punches, swap the nozzle on the one that’s clogged up and hope for the best, lol.
Thank you for taking the time to help out!
I find that the color of the filaments do affect the melting temp.
Lighter color PLA will go at 185-190 generally, Med colors Green and yellow and to push to the 200-205 and the Black, Blue and Dark browns I have to push at 215-220. I do a temp tower for every new filament.
Nozzle size and print speed affect it as well, Dark color with 100plus mm/sec and a .8 nozzle really do max out the capacity of most hot ends to melt it before it hits the nozzle.
Hi Jason, thanks for the reply.
I ended up replacing the nozzles, heatbreaks, and PTFE liners with better parts and they’re both printing well now. I still need to have the temp set higher than I ever have before with the same filaments I’ve always used. That’s the part that’s confusing to me.
At this point I’m just happy that they’re printing again but I still don’t like not knowing what’s causing the temp discrepancy
I would agree, Not knowing the cause is the most worrisome part.
I would still tend to think it’s a weak connection on one of the ribbon cable connections. Increased resistance on the connection is going to equate to lower temp readings. I would hazard to guess that at some point in the near future you are going to find a cable or daughter card will fail completely. Then I would assume your temp will go back to normal.
Just as a bit of a side thought, Have you ran a PID tune on this machine? It would get your temp back in line, would not fix the cause but it would eliminate the symptom. Personally, I would focus on the symptom. Even chasing the line up from the mainboard with a meter.
It’s just weird that they both did it at the same time by the same amount of error.
I haven’t yet, no
It’s on the list. Just gotta hit up YouTube University to figure out how first, lol.
Once I get a minute to get it done I’ll have at it
Thank you for your insight!!
anytime, that’s what we are here for. I’m trying to get into the habit of checking/updating every morning first when I come into work so I can keep everything up to date.
@Joshkashley once you trace the issue please post the outcome. It is helpful for the rest of us too. It is super odd that two happened at once.
I definitely appreciate that
Bit of an update:
I have orders for some models that take quite awhile to print (36hrs). I started both printers at the same time with the same Ideamaker sliced file using the same 3d Printing Canada standard black PLA.
Both started perfect. One roll was getting low so I paused and changed to a new roll of the same filament. That one is still printing just fine (although I have noticed some gradation in the black colour). The other printer printed fine for the first 50 or 60mm and then had a layer adhesion failure. About 10-15mm above that it happened again. The rest of the print looks great, just those two spots were separated. Where it had separated it looked similar to where a corner lifts off on the bed if bed temp isn’t set right.
I restarted the print last night on the same roll and woke up to more layer adhesion problems this morning.
I’m wondering what the odds of a crappy spool are. I opened a fresh one and started it again just about an hour ago so fingers crossed.
I still haven’t done a PID tune. I’ll get to that after these few orders go out
I will for sure!
I just need to get through these few orders so I can have some time for it
Both printers are doing the same? or is that just one?
@kitedemon Yes both same symptoms both started at the same time. That’s why initially I was thinking environmental? but the machines have been so solid up to now cannot figure that one out.
I’m having to print both printers hot. Like 235 hot
One printer just finished a 35hr print with no issue. That’s the one I changed the roll on about a quarter of the way through.
The other printer that failed twice was using just the one spool. It was new too but I’ve since changed it to another new roll and it’s going okay so far. It’s only 4.8mm high right now so it’s hard to say what will happen.
The model total Z is just over 80mm
Looks like I’ll be doing a PID tune whether I have the time or not…
Frustrating
That’s the third failure on that printer.
And the layer seperation isn’t even at the same spot on any of the three failed prints.
Hopefully tuning it will do something. I’m not sure why this is happening
That looks very familiar. I had similar failures with my x1. I was getting skipped or gapping like this then complete failure to extrude. No clog just not extruding. I eventually found it to be the stepper.
I am going to say what should have been said to me.
If it is under warranty still (and you haven’t voided it) contact tech support and get them to replace it, them, or parts.
There is a moment to cut your losses as well. I doubled the cost of the printer, and have printer that is meh. If my business own it and I paid myself labour to fix it I could easily have tossed it out and bought an industrial printer. Especially as it is a business expense.
