Welcome here! My vote would be for a CR Touch over a BL Touch, especially on a Creality machine. The probe on the CR Touch is metal, compared to whatever type of plastic the BL Touch uses. My $0.02.
That is a great suggestion!
The CRTouch is also a little bit more accurate if I remember right. I haven’t used one personally but I know other people seem to be pretty happy with it.
It’s very good. I have zero complaints about it.
Yup, I added CR Touches to both of my Ender 3s. Zero complaints. Only regret is not getting them about 2 years earlier!
Thanks for your suggestion, unfortunately I already purchased BLtouch v3.1 due to price and review I found especially with Cr10s-pro v1. The CRtouch here in Malaysia cost roughly usd5 more.
Anyways lets see how it goes this round…
This thread talks about adding a BL Touch to your printer.
Keep us updated on your progress. If you need any help we are always here.
Just received my BLTouch v3.1 kit + extension cables…!
I plan to install this with TM3D f/w : 10Spro_BIL_DW7.4.6.hex
Burning the midnight oil was worth it after some try and error. I was able to make it work and set my z-offset successfully. I share some notes here and pics for reference.
Glad you got it to work!
Thanks for sharing this info, I’ll note it down in case I need to refer to it in the future. How are you liking the BLTouch so far?
still not use to a mechanical piece probing to the bed… whenever it tries to z-home i pray that the nozzle does not grind all the way down then i see/hear that click click sound and smiled (relieved)
Every time I start my printers I listen for the Click Click, As long as I hear it on startup I am 90% confident I will run without issue.
Visually check the probe and make sure the red light is not flashing. If you have 2 clicks, Solid red, Solid blue, You’re at 99%.
The only caveat to that is if I have not powered up the printer in a couple of days or a week, the First time it homes Z I touch the probe with my finger to ensure I will stop as it should. Gives you a couple of secs to hit the power switch if something goes awry
Great tips Jason… Thanks a lot!
Latest upgrade for my cr10spro…
Double sided PEI sheet (smooth and textured), quite happy with the result… still need some fine tuning on filament temperature
Wow that look great! I can see that your bltouch has been working wonders for you.
I have always preferred PEI plates over the stock glass ones, they seem to perform more consistently for me anyways.
Really good investment to get Bl touch
Btw, do you think i should keep the auto levelling on before every print or do it only when i see levelling issues? Currently I set my gcode machine settings with ‘M420 S1 Z10’ after the G28 line, this I practice when using the Inductive sensor…
Is it necessary to do XY offset after installing the BLtouch? I am not familiar with editing Marlin/Arduino.
I’ve already got my XY offset figures but trying to avoid editing the .ino files and reupload the f/w. I was hoping to get away by editing it within Cura5.3.
I downloaded “10SPro_BLT_BIL_DW7.4.6.hex” only… it didn’t come with the Marlin .ino files. Which marlin.ino file i should edit using the ‘arduino-ide_2.1.0_Windows_64bit’ software?
Help is much appreciated! TQ in advance…
Its really a matter of pref, If you are confident you do not jiggle the bed when removing prints using the M420 is perfectly acceptable to speed up SOP time.
If you need to hit it with a scraper to get the last print off (generally) I would just use a G29.
You can also set the offset with an M851. You can add this through Pronterface and use the M500 to save the changes. If the firmware is fairly new the 851 option should be on.
Noted on the M420 script to speed up SOP time. I’ll stick to this for now.
As for the XY offset for bltouch, let me read through the article for M851 via pronterface. This sounds much easier to manage i hope!
haha! I found out the f/w on my printer has this motion setup function. Ez Pz