Well after my last printer died I had to find a new one, printing isn’t a hobby it is a calling. Mathew at 3DPC answered a lot of questions and with his advice I settled on the Creality K1 MAX. I would gladly drive the 150 Miles to Hamilton but when I checked them out they were out of stock (they had more in a few days, sorry Mathew). Since I was printer less for a while and jonseing for a print I picked one up closer to home from a store that had a couple. I already have questions so I hope there will be someone that can answer them.
It is faaassstttt and I have been printing at the recommend speed about half of what it can do. On smaller prints it moves around so fast the table is jumping about but so far I have printed three benchys and they have come out GREAT, as close to flawless as possible.
New software to learn calibration and adjustments, tweaking really, that need done so I have to learn that also. Ain’t life grand!
I have a K1 and was similarly impressed. Just do not like the small build volume. If I was to get another one I would wait for the K2, 350 cubed build volume.
Have Fun, they are good machines!
I have already learned a couple of thing’s.
- The bed is way out of level (.8mm but I have seem many on YouTube that are out as much as 1.5mm). It prints fine in the middle but larger thing not so much. Working on that.
- Creality Print (not Creality slicer) appears to be a version of orca slicer, to much similarity, rearranged some or they are both a copy of something else. Creality print seems to make prints that are faster but I could be misinterpreting things.
- My first benchy was right of of the printer, a demo and was absolutely perfect 16min. The second was in Orca and other then some very minor ringing it too was perfect, 48 min. The third was from Creality print, same model as the one used in Orca, printed just like the others, 24 min.
Conclusion. If Creality had stayed with a glass bed and used corner levellers, it would be much easier to level, then the ABL could handle any misalignment. Other then that is is good, so far…
my K1 max has been an interesting mixed bag. When its mad it lets you KNOW but it rarely gets mad.
It’s a jarring change from an E3pro.
I’ve had my K1 max for over a year and have not experienced any real issues and have printed hudreds of hours worth of ABS. I rooted the printer right away and added a secondary mainboard cooling fan that trips at idle. My bed was both out of level and slightly dished. I levelled it by reducing the tension on the z belt and skipping teeth. I also ditched the flex plate and magnetic adhesive to go with a glass plate from an ender 3 max and my bed mesh is at .14 mm. Rooting allows using Mainsail or Fluidd interface and Octoeverywhere for remote monitoring/control. There is a helper script available from Guilouz that makes the process easier - just be careful when doing a firmware update.
All good! I probably would have done the same 
Maybe try tightening the 4 bed screws, you can find these by lifting up the build plate and they will be with the magnetic surface. Make sure that these are all tightened down properly and see it that improves it at all.
How does the glass plate work when part of the flex plate that is scanned by the laser is not in the glass plate area? I have look at rooting the printer but my computer-foo is not great and it scares the crap out of me.
Thanks for not ordering a death notice on me.
I will look into the screws.
Started to deal with the warped bed. First thing was the “Need it Make it” You Tube channel has a good idea using printed wedges (model files links on page) to level it out. You figure out how much you need to make an adjustment and print the appropriate wedge out. So I did this and the problem was way worse. After a lot of anguish I realized that I was looking at the mesh backwards, changed it around and there was a big improvement. Not good enough but I’m still working on it. The one corner is definitely warped and that will need a different approach.
A long term approach might be to do what Dave did and go with a glass plate. With glue you get much better adhesion then glue on the mag plate. There is a levelling kit available with small hand wheels that attach through the four screw mounting holes.
Not sure I understand but the thickness of the glass is about the same as the magnet and flex plate so the top of the glass is where the top of the original build plate was. The glass is the same width as the flex plate and slightly longer. The lidar system scans the square off to the left of the build plate when it starts so I assume it would work the same though I have never activated the lidar.
I saw this short video on K1 bed adjustment. Seems like a good place to start.
I’m not sure what the guy in the video thinks he’s achieving, but the K1 max only has 1 z axis stepper motor that drives all 3 lead screws via a belt. Unless you skip teeth at 1 or 2 lead screws, the tilt of the bed will not change.
This would not accomplish anything unfortunately,
As @Davethegearhead mentioned all 3 z-axis lead screws are synchronized so doing an adjustment in this manner would affect all 3 of the lead screws at the same rate.
The real way to adjust the K1 Max is to move the bed all the way down to the bottom. When it is at the bottom it should contact the little black plastic bracket around the lead screw, each side has one. If they do not all contact this then you know its time to re-level it out. how you will want to accomplish this is to undo all 4 of the screws that hold the leadscrew nut in place. This will allow you to turn the leadscrew nut without adjusting any of the other axis (make sure your steppers are powered while you are doing this). Then you want to rotate the nut down to the plastic bit at the bottom, then once it is at the bottom you will push your build plate down and secure it to the lead screw nut once again. Repeat as needed for the other axis.
On every machine I have ever done this for the nuts will move in even 90 degree increments down to the bottom plastic bit allowing you to properly screw them back in place, I have never had one be off yet. If it is off by a bit just take it to as close as you can get until it screws into place.
If something here doesn’t make sense I am more than happy to explain it or to make a video showing how it is done.
BTW this process is basically exactly the same for BambuLabs machines in case you need to do it to them too!
PLEASE MAKE A VIDEO. It seems this is an unknown way to level the bed, even Creality does it differently.
I am going to order a glass bed, bad warp in the plate.
Does the thickness actually matter since the ABL probe will set the top of the build plate even if it is a different thickness or am I wrong.
Will do 
DAVE (@Davethegearhead)if your there.
Did putting a glass plate on the printer cause any secondary problems like with the extra weight interfering with the ABL, Z AXIS movement or other built in features. My plate has a large droop in one corner and I had good luck with glass (pebbly side down, flat side up. Great adhesion) and glue on my Ender 3V2. Since glass is generally flat it seems to be the best and simplest solution to the bent plate. This assuming the bed is fairly level.
No issues with the weight and the load sensors or anything else. Be careful where you put your bed clips so they don’t hit the rear fan or interfere with the nozzle. The only issue would be if you put the glass plate on top of the magnetic sheet and run the bed at higher temperatures, it could stick and become very difficult to remove. I removed the magnetic adhesive sheet and found that it was contributing to some of the bed “warp” (maybe inconsistent sheet thickness or poor installation). It is easier to peel off with the bed heated up. Any really bad spots on your bed like a drooping corner can be corrected with some aluminum foil between the glass and bed. I need to print dimensional accurate parts so bed flatness was important for me. My Ender 5 plus with it’s massive bed has a bed mesh of around .14mm with a piece of aluminum foil in the center of the bed.
I was going to do the foil thing to fix the wa p today but life intervened. Did you consider adding adjustable bed levelling screws like an ender 3 with wheels under the bed. There are some that are small enough to fit but I don’t know how the strain gauges would react to it. .
I made the video about how I level the bed. I included it in a separate topic, let me know if it helps at all!