So, as mentioned elsewhere, got myself a CR6-SE. I use my printer for my tabletop RPG’s (Frostgrave, Pathfinder, X-wing). I don’t like printing mini’s but it is great for terrain and scatter. (think I will get resin printer for mini’s)
I also backed the rocky Sunlu Filadryer project on KS. When fulfillment was due, I had an add-on option for a spool of filament at a discount. Who am I to pass up on a discount?
So, the filament I received is PETG. As a 3D printing noob, I have yet to deal with this strange creature. The box gives temperature for nozzle and bed and that is fine. But why would I use PETG rather than PLA. What specific uses do you folks have for PETG instead of PLA? How do you like it?
I print around 50/50 Petg and pla. I usually use Petg where heat is likely (my car coin tray for example, inside a car in the summer is too hot (potentially) for PLA. I also choose petg over pla where I need a bit softer use, like a live hinge. pla is brittle where pets is a bit more flexible. Some will say stronger but maybe, pets will bend before it breaks pla bends some and shatters. I tend to get better details with PLA but that can easily be settings I print mostly parts so fine details are not critical to me. I could likely dial settings better for pets to get better details but I don’t need that when I choose to print petg.
Thanks kite,
the summer heat issue is a good tip. I made some cute parts for my printer which partially broke when I tried to install them. Will try them with PETG.
Hey Gondolin, No problem. Kite works, my name is Alex. I have only been printing for a little over a year. My observations. PetG is a ‘bit’ more flexible. It isn’t ‘flexible’ if you take my point. PLA is like glass it is strong but if you place it where it is made to bend it will break quickly. Petg is a bit more like plexiglas it will give a bit before it breaks.
In NS I am not sure PETG is needed in a car maybe, in Ontario, for certain.
It seems not all petg is the same kind of duck. I bought a bunch of it with my printer (3dprinting house brand) and after sorting out most of the stringing with retraction, combing , coasting settings, im getting really nice results. Then I bought another brand (Taulman) and had to start from scratch.
I have learned that both benefit from dehydration, because it is a little hygroscopic
But basically, if I can get similar looking parts from pla and petg, my question is why would I want pla at all?
Petg is food safe and certified to print indoors without ventilation. It can take solvents, and as mentioned above, better mechanical properties and higher glass temp. (Though I hear some new pla has higher glass temps)
When I got my MK3S, it came with PLA, so that’s what I started with and when I printed the benchy test print, I thought "wow’. So I stuck with PLA for a short period, thinking all PLA brands are created equal. Uh, nope. If you like using PLA, find a brand that works for you, then stick with it. I almost swear by Prusament, but when 3DPC had a sale on Euro PLA and PETG, I decide to try them and wow, this stuff really works well for me.
For the most part now, I use PETG for many reasons even though it cost a little more than PLA, strength, higher melting point, safe for foods, next to no smell. The downside I find is it does cost a little more, requires higher printer temperatures that equate to more energy, and due to the higher temps, is more susceptible to warpage and lack of bed adhesion if the print environment is not controlled well, i.e. drafts and sudden changes in room temperature. Once I use up all my PLA, I will probably stick with PETG.
For my Printing Needs at home it’s like:
50% ABS
30% PET-G
15% PLA
5% Others (PA, PP, PC+, UV Resin)
I got in to the 3D printing world when we were using ABS and Weed Wacker Wire…
I Like ABS for Strength and Familiarity
PET-G has become a Replacement for MANY of my ABS printing!
it’s easier to print(like PLA) and is Cleaned up real quick with the hot air Gun.
I’ve Also been finding a lot more uses for UV Resin, Been doing experiments on Controlling Curing time to increase Ductility of final parts, not as brittle
I use a little ABS but my ventilation isn’t perfect yet. I am going to relocate my printer station where I can run a vent outside, I need to empty 10 boxes first… I have some ABS that seems quite low oder and with the charcoal filter I feel ok with it. I have some other really stinky stuff I don’t want to mess with.
@Keith how would you compare ABS to PETG ? Unless that is a thread hyjack!
I Don’t believe this counts as thread hijack.
We’re still talking Pro’s / Con’s of PET-G
For many of my Mechanical Prints, no difference!
When i use 4-6 outer layers 40% infill, I can Tap M3 and M4 threads directly in PET-G plastic and will hold.
I’ve been using the Standard Line PET-G
For ABS i use: 3DPC Standard Line, MG Chemicals, Sakata ABS-E
Oh in my personal experience ASA is junk compared to PET-G, when making Extruder parts, Printer Brackets, Cup holders, Dice towers, etc
That reminds me. I pledged and received a butload of Dice Tower stl’s. I want to print some and give to friends as X-Mass presents. So what do you recommend? PLA or PETG? Or does either do a good job?
I fiddled with ASA and had a unhappy time adhesion issues and layer to layer adhesion issues, I have an enclosure… I decided it wasn’t worth the struggle.
Hmm Gondolin I have never printed a dice tower I can’t imagine it making much difference. I find PETG a bit more difficult to hold fine detail but I don’t use it when I want detail. It is self fulling in my case, I don’t need detail when I use it so I don’t tune it as carefully…
I have major issue now with PETG that long prints curl up.
Short prints are not a problem.
I tried Brim, Raft, Hair spray, Glue every thing.
Temp Bed is 80/90 and Nozzle is 255-265
I use the textured spring steel plates, (PRUSA knock offs) and never have an issue with PETG, I crank my bed to 70 and only use it on the machines furthers from the furnace duct so there is no air moving around them.
I have good luck with petg at 245 nozzle and 70 bed temp. 3DPC house brand black has been great for me. I always use an elmers glue stick on top of the wham bam pex surface
@daffod Your temp settings are basically the same as mine. My nozzle is a bit cooler than yours but that is it. 230-245. My guess is the ambient air temp is cool and that is causing your issues. If a short print sticks and it lifts during long ones it sounds like the bed is fine but something is effecting it later on in the print. I am guessing but air temps. I print with an enclosure. Just to test you might try cobbling a bag over the printer (keep and eye on it) just to see. Something like a big ikea bag perhaps.
When I fulfilled my pledge for my printer, is also bought an enclosure for it. The printer I had borrowed previously was somewhat noisy so I did not take any chances. Turns out it is much quieter but…
A side effect I had not expected is how constant the temp and humidity in the enclosure is pretty well maintained. I bought a small themometer with humidity indicator on amazon. It has a magnet on the back and I stick near the handle at the top of the printer.
It is an almost constant 35.9C and 12% humidity, with a barely noticeable fluctuation when I open the enclosure to add a spool in my filament dryer.
I have some ABS that seems quite low oder and with the charcoal filter I feel ok with it. I have some other really stinky stuff I don’t want to mess with.