So I just pulled this piece off the printer and I’m mostly happy with it. Printed at ultra fine settings on my CR10s pro v2 and I’m amazed at how smooth it came out. But I’m seeing some odd repetitive patterns that I’d like to identify so I can tweak my settings to prevent. In this case I’ll be sanding and painting so you probably won’t see them in the final product but if I can improve the prints I’d like to. I’m hoping someone can advise on what these are and how to get rid of them:
That is called ‘ringing’ it is caused by vibrations.
Causes:
Printing too fast. This is in the slicer settings printing at a slower speed may clear it it.
Mechanical issues can also cause it, makes sure there isn’t any sloppy ness in the movements. I had to brace my gantry as it vibrated while the head moved.
Acceleration and jerk controls in the slicer, these alter how fast the directions change and slow to fast moves are made. Slowing this down can also help.
Belts, loose belts can also be an issue.
Heavy prints will accentuate this so it appears to come and go.
Thanks!!! I was printing at a .12 layer height with a speed of 50mm/s. The outer wall speed was 25mm/s though. Should I print even slower?? This one took 11 hours as it was,
The desk I have the printer on might have some slight wobble. I’ll print up some gantry braces. I’ll have to look at other ways to dampen vibrations.
Acceleration and jerk settings might be the fastest/easiest/cheapest fix right now (cheaper than buying a new table and faster than printing new parts!) I’m not super well versed with how to determine the best values outside of trial and error, so someone else might be able to step in and give more detail.
The basics, from what I get, is that by lowering the acceleration and jerk values, your machine won’t be speeding in to or out of direction changes. This causes less resonance through the machine, and therefore less ringing. Bracing your machine will help dampen the resonance, but changing acceleration and jerk should cut that raw amount down. I have Z-braces on my Monoprice Maker Select v2 and also tuned the acceleration/jerk settings on that and saw noticeable improvements from each one of those changes. Haven’t done it to my ender 3 pro yet.
e: to the point of the “STL file that can be printed reasonably quickly…”, sink the part you’re building in to the build plate to start printing just near the where it rings and see what happens. Or print the entire thing again after changes and compare apples to apples.
I’ll try that. I’m also printing a couple of frame braces to stiffen the upper chassis up a bit (thought I’d try that before I went full bore threaded rod bracing). I’ll also play with the acceleration and jerk setting tho.
Thanks Jason! I’m going to tighten my x axis belt as I think there might be a bit of slack there. Y is good though. I’ll also watch those videos. Appreciate the help!
I have it on some of my machines, I don’t have to use it for adjustment per say, I use it to get enough slack on my belt to remove the belts from the carriage on the machines I modify alot.
Less stuff to strip out when I am bolting and unbolting the tensioner.
I have only adjusted the belt tension slightly in 18 months. It isn’t an adjustment made frequently. If the printer has the ability to adjust and it is clunky I’d leave it. Once every year or so no big deal.
I retensioned my belt and put a foam mat under the printer to try and control vibrations. I found a ghosting test that Maker’s Muse had put out so i’m trying that now at super quality (.12) and will see what the results are. If they look good I’ll try and redo the section of my model that was suffering from ghosting before to test.
I’m also noticing, as I’m printing the bracing brackets, that there’s quite a bit of wobble apparent at the spool. I’m not sure if the spool is amplifying the vibrations or if it’s just an indicator. Has anyone noticed improvements in ringing/ghosting by removing the spool holder from the frame and having it on a separate overhead rod? Or is that just overkill?
