oh yeah having the spool way up I the air attached to the printer is not a great thing it will lengthen vibrations making them worse. that’s why I haven’t bothered doing this kind of tuning yet as I don’t have a good way to deal with that at the moment. For now, I just slow the print speed way down for things like your text.
Well then I need to come up with a better solution for my spool - if I slowed the print down it’d take me months to print all the pieces. Plus my goal is to dial the printer in as much as possible so this would have to happen anyway. The question is what is the most elegant solution that will work for my space? Time to start doodling…
I’ve tried the Cement tile trick, worked Okay!
I cannot use it in current printer positions, too tight
I Do need to vibrationally De-Couple some of my printers, there’s x3 off then on top of my rolling tool chest, in the basement.
Bad idea! 
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I think the weight of the spool on top of the printer increases the issue, soft feet might too. I have dampened the surface the printer sits on not the printer its self. I have the same issue with my sidewinder if I print as fast I hoped (100mm/s+) I could it has bad ringing. If I print as slow as I need to for clean prints it is slow (40mm/s).
I keep looking at a Voron or maybe a troodon they both look to print far faster.
I printed the blaster barrel at 50mm/s so I suppose I could slow it down a bit but I think Ill wait until my frame braces are finished printing and installed as well as getting a cement block to put the printer on to see if there’s any additional measures necessary to improve the prints.
The other thing that I hadn’t mentioned is that I also have a Micro Swiss direct drive on this printer. I would expect that the additional mass would also contribute to the ringing. Any thoughts on tuning for direct drives?
Weight will add to the momentum. I personally think the frame has more to do with it. My Prusa has such a rigid frame it prints faster than the sidewinder which has a multi part frame.
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Okay… just trying to eliminate all the variables. I should have the frame brace finished soon but will have to wait til tomorrow to install as I am still waiting for my t-nuts to arrive. But I’ll also go get a paving block for dampening. I also plan to remove the spool holder from the top of the frame but I’m not sure what I’m going to replace it with just yet. With my current setup I can’t really use a desktop standalone spool holder (just due to layout) so I either need to rig up something to hang the spools overhead or try and find a spool holder that will mount to the back of my CR10s Pro V2.
Found a side spool holder on Thingiverse. It looks like it mounts on these screws:
Without having to open the whole thing up and check, can I remove and replace these screws one at a time without damaging anything internally? From what it looks like to me I’d guess these are connecting the case to the internal frame structure but I don’t know for sure.
I would have a peek inside and see. from photos I think those extrusions are attached from the bottom and on the side with a bracket (inside there) that those screws hold but I don’t see if it’s hex nuts or threaded holes
I was hoping to avoid that… don’t really want to tear it all open again…
actually looking at a couple more photos I think those screws go in to t-nuts (hammer nuts) . Is there another extrusion behind that sheetmetal?
I am going to suggest something less complex. Just print something like this.
put in on a box or something just enough to see if it makes enough of a difference to bother with something else. I’d advise not going to lots of effort until you know it will make a difference.
Good suggestion. I’d have to order bearings tho. I’m going to do the frame bracing and dampening and then do a test and see where I’m at. If it still needs more then I’ll add the spool holder.
try a print in place one. I have a bunch of bearings in a drawer I didn’t think.
There are tons of designs. I just like the two track ones. I use the first one I linked. Any will do. The idea is to discover if it is an improvement or not.
Makes sense. Hopefully my t-nuts show up tomorrow so I can install the bracing and do another ghosting test print.
So the bracing was a minor improvement. Slowing the print speed from 50mm/s to 40mm/s was a bit better but I’m still getting some ghosting. Going to get the concrete slab and see if that helps.
But I will also try taking the filament holder off the top of the frame. I like the way the CR6E had its filament holder. Might try something similar…
@SpaceMoose Moose, We sell that holder separately. It will Connect to any 20 series 4040 extrusion,
https://3dprintingcanada.com/products/cr-6se-3max-spoolholder
Hmm… if it connects to 4040 then that won’t work for my cr10s pro v2 without an adapter of some kind. But that’s not the end of the world. First I need to determine if the spool on top is in fact the problem and if it is then I’ll figure out how to make it work.