This beast has gotten beastier LOL. Running the ghosting test again to see if it helped. After that will be moving the spool holder if need be.
One of these days I’ll be able to get back to printing stuff other than calibration models…
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It looks like my Artillery with all the bracing. I found hanging the spool off the frame helps in my case. I frustratingly found I had to print at 35mm/s - 40mm/s to get it under control. IMO it is a flaw of the frame design. A T design held by screws is never going to be super stable. My prusa with a fixed box gantry and the rest attached to the ridged core is much stiffer. I print at 60mm/s all the time it has less ringing than the heavily modded sidewinder at 35mm/s.
You might try slowing it more if you can sacrifice the time.
Kinda like earthquake countermeasures in tall buildings heh!
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The bracing seems to have had only a marginal impact on quality. I’ve taken the spool holder off the top and have it MacGuyvered off to the side for now. If that solves the problem I’ll look for a more permanent solution.
Well it seems each step I take had a marginal improvement on the ghosting but I still have yet to get it perfect. Not sure if I need to slow it down even more to get the best quality or if there are other settings I need to play with. At some point I’m going to have to say it’s good enough.
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There seems to be band that is unmoving and it is changed but still there. My sidewinder experience I ended up finding v rollers with flat spots. This created similar lines. You might check rollers and belts for smooth movement.
Only you can decide if it is good enough. My personal opinion is it is fine if you make parts for things but as finished prints I would be unhappy.
Hmm - would they have flat spots from the factory? I haven’t even burned through my first full spool yet. I definitely want to get it as nice a print as possible (followed by dimensionally accurate) so I guess I’ll check the rollers tomorrow. How often do those typically get replaced?
Also, would a flat spot on a roller account for the ghosting in the letters or might there yet be something else?
my artillery came with over tightened V rollers, that causes flat spots. Once I found one I found more and more, at a certain point I just did them all with PC bearings. They don’t wear out often. Mine were abused and improperly installed from the factory. When I moved each axis there was uneven movement spots where it got slightly easier and harder to move.
Maybe? I suspect the ringing is not one thing but a combination. You are already seeing this. The MIGHT be adding to the issue or the might be perfect.
I would agree, the Vwheels could be an issue, if they happen to be shipped in the summer in a hot Sea Container it can compound the problem as well, If they sit for a long time (3 months) in a hot shipping container cannot help the problem,
Are there any good/reliable resources anywhere describing how to adjust and how tight they SHOULD be that I can reference?
That’s gonna be a hard one, Personally I loosen them right up. and I tighten them down until the slack is out and that’s it. I don’t adjust them “tight” at all.
Not sure how I could describe it, about the same tension as you would use on a Mayo jar in the fridge, enough so you know it won’t come off but you don’t need to crank it.
Its a bad example but cannot think of anything else off the top of my head.
I set mine so that if I turn one wheel of 3 by hand the carriage will move without the wheel slipping
Here is a look at my x axis carriage wheels. Does all that build up mean it’s too tight?
I tried disabling the stepper so I could move it freely but the touch screen button doesn’t seem to do anything. Can I use a gcode command in the terminal to do it? M18 X and then M17 X after?
easiest is just power the machine off, it will allow free wheeling, Just remember not too fast.
The dirt on the wheels is actually dust attracted to the wheels cause they build up a static charge.
Looks ugly but actually no ill effect as long as you run a Swiffer once in a while.
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Learning is fun 
I’ll give it a try and see what happens
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It feels like there are a couple of spots where it grabs a bit. I loosened the eccentric nut and re-tightened it just to the point where the carriage stops wobbling. I’ll try the ghosting test again and see if that made a difference.
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So here’s the latest test print compared to the last one. Used the exact same gcode file. Newest is on the bottom.
So it’s marginally worse since I adjusted the eccentric nut. But I’m pretty sure I have a damaged wheel as I could definitely feel a bump/drag when I was moving the x axis carriage by hand. Just need to try and figure out which one. Either that or say eff it and replace them all haha.
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Nope that is toast. Sorry moose.
Yes like others have said. I adjust mine as loose as they can be with out allowing the carnage to rock or twist if you would rather, If you have one bad one you should check the others. I decided for the time and cost to just replace them all. Once I was in it just seemed easier and for me the 30$ wasn’t worth the time of putting it all back together and maybe having to take it apart a second time. I just changed them all. (I had 4 bad ones so it was wise in my case)
I’ll just change em all. Not a big deal. Are there different kinds/materials? Are there upgrades that will make them more resilient going forward?