Voron 2.4 R2 Kit

Currently building and enjoying the build so far. Mostly done just a few hick-ups but managed to work around them.

I suspect the BOM list you have is slightly outdated as the kit comes with Hartk Toolhead board and the optional Z limit switch board. But the provided (paid extra) printed parts don’t come with the kit that are required to attach them.

For example you need different base for the z-limit switch and a different cover and PCB spacer for the optional toolhead board as the one supplied won’t work. I managed to find and print them. Will have to fire up my ABS for the Z base though as it sits close to the hotbed.

These boards were a nice surprise though I was expecting to have to run cables but it has the harnesses already made.

I may swap the Orange Pi to a Rasp Pi 4 that I currently having run Octoprint on my Enders but going to see how the Orange runs first.

I would never say that I “enjoyed” assembling my 2.4 as getting it wired and fully working was a chore and while the printer works quite well, I wouldn’t recommend it to anybody other than as a hobby project that will probably never quite end.

I purchased the FYSETC kit. What really killed me was all the part printing that you have to do; this is really where I learned about ABS shrinkage - make sure you understand how much the filament you’re using shrinks after cooling and make allowances when you’re slicing the (204!) models.

Don’t bother with the Hartk PCB on your StealthBurner - go straight to something like the Mellow FLY SB2040 as having the intelligent toolhead PCB that is connected to the main controller using CAN works at least as well and greatly simplifies both the wiring you have to do at the toolhead as well as in the base of the printer. With the decreased mass and bending resistance of the four wire CAN connection (two power, two signal) over the 18 wires or so you’ll have with direct wiring or the Hartk, you’ll find that the toolhead moves faster and more easily with the FLY SB2040.

A number of people have their 2.4s running with Orange Pis, but I would recommend starting with genuine rPi 4s as the process and .cfgs are well defined whereas with the Orange Pi there doesn’t seem to be a central repository for setting up a 2.4 with them.

Good luck and I hope your build continues to go smoothly!

Thanks for the tips there. I will be looking into the CANBUS system for it as yep would clean things up a bit. I’m looking at the EBB42 as mine is the afterburner with a Nema17 pancake on it. Not really sure exactly the difference between the EBB36 but so far from what I found its the 46 one I need.

For now I will probably proceed with the current one as thats what it has and a matching harness can always change it later on as that is what I love to do. (My Ender 3V2 and E5+ has been modified like crazy) And just seeing on the mods for the Voron its probably by never ending. =0)

And yup you convinced me to swap in a Pi4 instead of the Orange as may make life easier in the long run and move it to Octoprint for the Enders.

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I’d recommend going with the Stealthburner, rather than Afterburner. It’s lighter, mechanically simpler (and more reliable) as well as providing much better cooling airflow. I think that most people are using that with their 2.4’s, mostly because it looks a lot better.

You will probably have to decide what Z axis sensor to go with - if you use the Omron proximity sensor, look for a board that will handle the high voltage input from it (otherwise, you’re going to be doing some soldering and maybe making a little adapter board). If you go with BL Touch, make sure you have the 5 pins to take the BL Touch connector directly. The SB2040 has an input designed for the Omron sensor but no the BL Touch whereas the EBB36/42 have the reverse; they cannot take the Omron sensor but they do have a 5 pin connector for a BL Touch.

I would recommend not playing around with Klicky - the concept is good but the implementation isn’t as good as what people say it is. A big problem with it is that you can’t detect if you have picked it up from its nest. I played around it for a while and decided that the Omron was the better way to go (as it has a mounting designed in the toolhead support.

There are too many damn options to select on the Voron 2.4 and not enough references to help people along the way.

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I downloaded and I am planning on doing the Stealthburner just need to see if one of my Ender’s will reliably print in ABS. My Ultimaker 2+ does but its picky but its all cause they are all open frame printers, I have a “tent” that I am going to put my Ender 5 + in and see how it does and maybe will print the stealth. If not I will just get the voron running stock and have it print its own upgrades.

I was planning on using the Euclid Probe (basically Klicky just bit fancier) but right now its the Omron prox sensor and will see how that fairs. Didn’t even think about the BL-Touch as I have a extra one I could use instead!

The mods for this printer and what not does become overwhelming. Like the CANBUS stuff so many options of the same boards just different features etc. Like the FLY-SHT one has 2 U2C boards a 1 and a 3 from what I understand the 3 is for if you don’t have a mainboard with CANBUS which mine has one (Octopus V1.1)

BUt for now I think mostly its going to be stock until its working and then it can work on its own updates. I think this printer is going to keep me very busy or very fustrated. =0)

THanks again for all your advice!! Always welcome to have! =0)


I agree with going with the Stealthburner and CANBUS option. I modified my build to go with the Stealthburner, a Pi4, a BTT EBB36 and a PCB Klicky probe right from initial build.

If you are printing ABS in the heated chamber, I just saw way too many reviews, comments, etc, about the Omron probe loosing accuracy and more importantly, melting.

The PCB Klicky is a much better design than the standard klicky and I have never had a single issue picking up the probe. The mount fits the same way as the Omron, very clean. As a bonus you can use auto z axis calibration then as well. (Make sure to have a cleaning station)

Since the kit came with the BTT Octopus it has support for CANBUS, so using the BTT EBB36 no U2C boards where needed. Keeping it simple is always good to me.

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Nice I saw that the Octapus 1.1 had canbus support but couldn’t find concrete detail that I didn’t need the U2C module. I have a EBB36 in the mail to me. I am working on printing the pieces to the Stealthburner but I think I will need to get the afterburner up to print abs better.

My Ender 5 is doing it but not 100% clean as I would like. ie) a section of the part that climbs up (dragon HF back mount) curled on me and the BL touch and cooling fan shroud (custom mount with hemera) started crashing into it. That may have been the mounts fault too though as found it was loose so all tightened up again. Running another test print and seems better so might be able to pull it off with the Ender 5 just needs a bit more tweaking.

Love this kit/Printer though. Don’t even have it running yet and looking up all the addon’s and mods. Kind of eyeing the Voron Tap for it. But for now it will be the Prox until my Euclid kit arrives.

Also need to go pick up better guage wire for the high voltage side that is one thing this kit is lacking, II don’t like the wire gauge provided for the HV side. Well I have my own red and black wire need green cause I want to keep it colour coded etc. =0)

Euclid Probe: https://euclidprobe.github.io/

Once again thanks for the all the advice.

Interesting. I haven’t seen the PCB Klicky - I’m guessing that it’s a fairly new innovation. I had such a bad experience with trying to get the original Klicky to work that I just went back to the Omron probe and haven’t looked at it again - I know that there are a lot of people who swear by Klicky.

If anybody is looking for information on it, you can find it here:

With lots of people selling kits like:

The Omron melting is a Stealthburner design issue with heatsink cooling air being driven against the unit. I guess I have one of the polycarbonate ones because I’ve never had an issue. This is a bit of an ironic problem because the Voron designers went with the Omron part because it is designed for industrial applications and should be more reliable in the toolhead than a BL Touch in a heated chamber. You’ll see that in Omron datasheet, the operating temperature is -25C to 70C:

Octopus is a surprisingly good board (once you have all the jumpers figured out) and going with CAN Bus as well as moving the rPi outside the enclosure with its own power supply makes the wiring quite reasonable.

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What size do you have?

I know with the 350mm size I have space wasn’t an issue. The kit has a secondary power supply for the Pi, and with the accelerometer built into the BTT EBB36, the PI only has 3 connections: power, USB to Octopus, and USB to camera.

I think I got my PCB Klicky from 3dlab. It’s basically klicky and Euclid combined. I decided to not skimp on upgrades as I wanted to be built and done. I still tinker with my heavily hacked Ender 5 Pro and Ender 6. As a result I bought upgrades from all over (including Europe) and lost track of what was from where. Still amazed that items from other countries can come faster through carriers at the same cost as Canada post in country. :slight_smile:

I’ve been happy with other mods at tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods (github.com) as well.

I went with the GE5C mounts, Kinematic bed mounts, BARF LEDs, and extrusion backers.

I went with the 350 same size as my Ender 5 Plus. If I need bigger my Ender 3V2 can do it as its 400x400 (Extender Kit).

I plan to mount all the electronics under it and going to attempt to keep it clean so it doesn’t become a rats nest of wires under it.

Ahhh so many mods. =0)

Most of them are hopefully for long term stability.

The Barf LEDs was just because my old eyes ruined my normal LED board while soldering and I just wanted a prewired solution. The normal LED prewired were backordered so I went with the Barf. I was never into the “personal touch/flashy” type mods.

Just curious, what print head do you have and what materials do you print most and how fast? (If you’ve pushed it yet)

That’s what I was hoping for and exactly what I didn’t get with the printer. :face_exhaling:

I’m getting there, but it’s been MUCH MORE work than I would have expected. The extra money I’ve paid out has been surprisingly little (maybe $150 CAD) but the number of tear downs, reprints, adjustments, (re)wiring, some poor quality parts from the FYSETC kit (ie all my toothed idlers wore out within a couple of hundred hours of printing and it seemed like I had to spend just as long to tear down the printer to replace them and then put things back together) and overly complex 3D printed parts has really soured me on the printer.

Maybe now that I have things where I want them to be I will have something that is reasonably stable.

I have a 300mm x 300mm print bed, using the stock/basic V6 hot end (although I’ve heard a lot of good things about the Revo and might want to try it).

I can run at 150mm/s comfortably with fair to good quality prints - I think the issue is that the V6 can’t pump filament through fast enough which is why I’m considering the Revo. Best best quality speed I’ve found is at 100mm/s although other people report 120mm/s (I haven’t done a lot of testing to find the “maximum best” top speed). Don’t bother with 200mm/s and above except to see the toolhead whip around at something looking like Mach 1 - I found that the stress of these speeds often broke the filament from the spool and cracked the PTFE tube it is carried in.

That sucks. I assumed you were using the kit from 3D Printing Canada. All the things I read about the LDO kit was good, but I don’t know where 3D Printing gets their kits, but the quality seems pretty good. Hearing your issues makes me feel better about doing my upgrades from the beginning.

I have the Revos on my other 2 machines, and they are great, print really well. I’ve never had issues with skipping or jams, but they are also flow limited, I think around 10.5mm³/sec. They are fine on machines that you aren’t pushing speed, but I wanted the Voron for faster prints. The 3D Printing Canada kit came with Phateus Dragon HF and I’ve add CHT nozzles, and still ramping up and testing.

I got my kit from 3D Print Canada, haven’t finished the assembly stage yet though kinda of stalled but back at it again. Main frame is done just need the cabling electrical to be done.

The kit came with the Phateus Dragon HF so I have that installed could also attempt the SuperVolcano V6 as I have that sitting around doing nothing but will give the dragon a go so I don’t have to print the bracket for it. =0) I mainly print in PLA+ but with this I’m going to explore into other materials.

I love tinkering with things like this so kinda of why I dove into this project I just hope it doesn’t go spiraling out of control or down the drain. So far everything is going together well. Just put on all my connectors for the AB left another slack for when my EBB CANBUS arrives. As for now its the Hartk Toolboard. But knowing the mail I will probably end up getting the canbus before I even power it up. So out it will go.

FYSETC kit. Overall good but with little things like this that causes problems. I don’t know which kit 3D Printing sells or if they make it up themselves. To be fair, there’s a LOT of little things in the Voron 2.4 design that has a lot of little things that cause problems - I had an unreasonable amount of problems with the rear A/B belt assembly and the four Z joints for the adjustable bed and these don’t have anything to do with which kit you buy.

Good to know about the Revos, I won’t invest in them for now.

Hi Guys

We have a supplier to that we provided the BOM for the Voron to them and they sourced the parts for us and provided a “kit” I guess you could call it a kit from us but just a technicality.

For what ever reason they still don’t include the power input module. Annoying but it’s about a $5 part from your local electronics store.

Hello Jason,

Print Input module? The AC conector with built-in fuse? Its in the kit or is there something else I’m missing. =0)

Yes the plug at the back where the power cord attaches, You are correct.

Phew ok. thought I was missing something. As it is in the kit.

So close to initial power up. Just need my green grounding wire and my USB C connector for the Pi.


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The correct term for the is “Power Entry Module”.


You should be looking for one with an IEC 320 socket so it can handle standard PC/TV power cords.

It should be fused and, ideally, with input filters.