I ran a bed level test and this is how it came out
Left | centre | right
Well, the bed isn’t level. Nozzle is close on left and far on right. On your printer im not sure why automatic leveling isn’t taking care of it.
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Yeah so the left side is fine but once you move to the centre and then right side it’s all off. Not sure how to fix that problem.
Any suggestions?
on mine, if I hadn’t done any disassembly or anything I would save a new mesh, then try this again. on mine either the mesh is no longer valid or the top structure is twisted and needs to be aligned
Complete newbie here. What’s the “mesh”?
There are a few diferent schemes to level the bed. Some probe a detailed map thats stored in memory then the printer only has to probe a few points to tell if its changed and loads the detailed map from memory to use for the print. The map is called a mesh
I find the BL touch is only good for minute changes. The fact you now have two levelling systems makes it more complex. Personally I would run through a regular bed levelling using the corner adjustments and get it as good as I could get it. then allow the BL touch to take care of any variations in bed surface.
Once you get a good first layer calibrate the extruder, it too can create issues and if the bed is out with a new extruder it is likely out too.
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What is your transmission ratio set too?
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So I am not sure how to get the right side and centre levelled. The left side is great but I can’t turn the bed level nobs to raise the right side up anymore. So when the filament goes down on the left it’s smooth and flat like a pancake but as it moves over to the centre and right side it lifts. I have tried to google to find best way to fix and adjust but no luck
Do you have an adjustment for the BL touch height? If so and you decide to follow this, look for a BL touch height guide and print it using the best part of your bed.
If you cannot adjust the height of the BL touch stop. It sounds like you bed is quite far off. Farther than the BL touch mesh can correct. Or your mesh is not being saved. What firmware did you use? Do you have a menu for saving the mesh? Also stop if you are not certain.
Oh. The mesh is the table of offsets the BL touch creates. It allows the print head to make small adjustments as it prints. I have a BL touch on one of my printers to work well the bed needs to basically be mostly level (Trammed is the correct term not level, Meaning the head is parallel to the bed) If the mesh values are not saving in the firmware (automatically or manually with a menu item) This could be the issue.
When I adjust mine (every few months of if there is an issue) I bring the BL touch as it will go. (I move the bed to the lowest position then raise it up to loosely the middle of its adjustment. I heat the printer up and command an auto home. This will engage the BL touch to locate but because it is down the nozzle will be WAY off. You can then disable the steppers in the menus, and start to level the bed. I use a feeler gauge but a business card will work really thin paper is going to be too close. Adjust crudely all four corners and middle, then go back around and do a better job. If you get one corner perfect by the time you have done the others it will be out again. Course first close but don’t fuss. Fuss the second time around. Once done then readjust the height of the BL touch back to 8.3mm (use the printed guide) Then reprint your alignment target and use the baby stepping menus to fine tune it. Once done the BL touch will keep the calibration and adjust for little variances.
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Before you do anything you should talk to them. I forgot you had them do the mod. It is clearly a calibration issue, it has moved for some reason. (you might need better springs) and since they did the calibration for you it might be worth seeing if they will cover the work. They may or not as it could easily be knocked or rattled out. It is worth asking.
This is one of the issues with Creality, and similar. They often need to have massive reconstruction to work well. Changing a couple of things exposes more issues caused by all the cheap clone parts. I fell into this and ended up basically doubling the initial cost of one of my printers. I replaced or altered almost everything. (two boards, metal skirt, screen, belts and some of the steppers did not get replaced) It works OK it makes good prints not spectacular, and prints slowly. If I had taken the initial cost and time I put into it, I would have had enough of both to have purchased or assembled something far better. I would have ended up with a great printer rather than an X1 that is modified to work.
It isn’t that 3dPC did a bad job, you now have a printer with two levelling systems designed to work independently that effect each other, trying to work together. The extruder needs a certain amount of power that the steppers may or may not deliver. Changing one thing sometimes means chasing the cascading issue. The good news for you is it was printing well so you can get back to that. You just need to solve why it walked out. I suspect the bed springs. talk with 3DPC and see what they will do. If you are going to level the bed might as well put better springs in to hold more tension so the screws of the bed don’t change as easily.
I have tried tweaking the bed and the z off set. I tried to do another print. The back half of the print is adjusted okay I think it’s the front half. This was printed in the centre of the bed with petg
That looks like the nozzle is too far away from the bed to me. The top of WARS looks like it lifted a bit, did it?
Do you use glue stick? I’d try if not. It should help with the lifting. I’d also use the baby stepping to lower the nozzle toward the bed a bit.
I agree too high at least on most of it.
I tried hairspray this time but will go back
to the glue stick. How do you do baby steps when the the printer is going? I would like
To give that a try
Thanks
Depending on the firmware it is in the menu.
Find a calibration target file doesn’t really matter what one. Start printing it and find the baby stepping menu it is possibly live Z or something then you can lower the nozzle very precisely to the bed.
Instructions for a Prusa, the principal is the same but the commands and menus will be totally different. They might be instructions for your exact firmware or not.
Pay attention to what it should look like. I now you don’t have the calibration target build in but printing the file is the same basically.
I believe I’m working on your printer right now. She’s fixed up you had a bad fan I also mad it easy for u to change fast right at the head
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PJ you are the man! Thank you so much!!!
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Far too many take things apart before contacting the manufacturer or in the case who did the work.
Can you tell me what filament you used when you ran a test print in my Ender3 v2?
I am using petg with temps 240/70
Print speed 50.0mm
0.3mm layer height
10% infill
Cubic infill pattern
I used CURA slicer and the pursa slicer. I don’t know if I should reformat my micro as card.
But my prints are still coming out crappy. And I just opened a fresh roll of PeTg
I have it in an enclosed case the printer