Most causes are that your nozzle is too far from the bed! Try adjusting your z-offset.
Your bed maybe too cold, so try raising it by 10 degrees.
The bed surface may be dirty so make sure to clean the bed after every use with 99% IPA.
Lastly, make sure the bed you are printing on is appropriate to use with the filament you are printing. Check out this link to help you choose suitable bed types: What is better to print on? PEI or Glass
I’ve been using Elmer’s gluestock from the dollar store on the creality glass bed. It washes up with water and everything has stuck nicely since I started using it
Try these three things they help me a tone!
Wash your bed with soap and water make sure it’s dry.
Make sure you let your glass bed preheat for a few minutes before printing.
Level your bed with the bed and nozzle at temp. Materials expand when heated.
Agreed with the above. I think it’s important to review whether it used to stick (an existing printer that stops adhering) and if it’s a new printer.
I’ve found that usually adhesion is related to bed “levelling”, which is somewhat of a misnomer. The intent is to make sure that the bed surface is level with the nozzle, and uniformly the correct distance away. I know when I first started, I thought it mean level in the room - like, rest a level on the surface and make sure the little bubble is perfectly in the middle.
It’s worth spending a LOT of time fine-tuning how level your bed is and really studying the results against some common guides to determine if you are too close or too far from the surface.
I’m having a bit of trouble with a print. This is the third set of parts making and each has been more problematic than the last. I turned adhesion off because these pieces have a wide flat base so I’ll turn it back on and try again and also I’ll clean the plate. All the first little test things I prited had no trouble.
My B1 plate isn’t glass or PEI. it’s some kind of paint on spring steel
I had the exact same issue a week ago and my solution was to check bed level and make sure it’s close enough with the paper test, made sure bed was preheated for a couple of minutes and ran the level test print until it looked proper. Took me a few tries to figure out what perfect was, but since then I have not had any issues. Also, when cleaning the bed or removing old prints, do not put pressure on the bed as it may cause the bed to go out of level.
If your bed is slightly warped you can also increase the flow rate just for the first layer of the print. I’ve had to work with one printer which was off so much in one area that this was the only solution that worked. Still, like what other’s have said, having a properly levelled bed is always preferred. I personally use the paper method to achieve the correct distancing.
I use a creality cr10 mini. For my prints I use a layer of frog tape on the print bed. You know, the green stuff. Sticks well to that.
Purchased the Creality glass bed with my Ender 3 when I first got it and have been printing with purple glue stick most of my printing hobby.
Recently got a Wham Bam flex plate and it’s coated with PEX. At first, took a bit to dial it in: change bed temp, slow down first layer, scratch the heck out of it with the course brush. Now, it sticks really well and pops off when cold. No more fighting with it to stick or with it to pop it off the glued bed
Well it’s improved but not perfect. I’ll double check i the morning when this print is finished but I think the left side of the bed is actually colder than the right and the left is where the problems are mostly. Is there a wide swing of temperatures across the bed surface usually?
Exactly what is said, it took me days to get it “Close enough” to meet my standards (UBL 12x12 grid of probe points, corners no more then 0.03mm different) but it’s still not perfect (Stock ender 3 I can’t get any better, the X axis sags randomly on the right so until I go dual Z leads I will accept as is)
Also add that you need to ensure your leveling with everything setup exactly the same each time… Took me a few times to realize my glass bed (Official Creality bed) that USED to be flat is now bowed on two corners, if I don’t position it the same way it throws off the UBL and needs another tweaking… Also readjust Z offset every nozzle change, every belt tension adjustment, etc. and keep the Z leads properly lubricated… mine started to “slug” a bit throwing off my Z until I purged the left over Creality grease and the new one stuck.
i have tried everything… and to avoid all headaches i end up putting Bltouch and buy a good filament and i have ZERO issue on glass bed came on my ender. No more tape, No more Glue, No more Hair Spray. Everything works. Just make sure to have some time to set Z Offset properly after bltouch install. i printed about 8 different brands and not a single one created issue.
If the build plate isn’t insulated you could insulate the bottom so that it helps with the heat dispersion.
That could be it. The printers in the shop and the shop is allowed to go down to 5c normally but I’ve left the heat on since the printers arrived and it gets maybe 10C at the lowest now might be that a draft is cooling part of the bed. I can’t check my temperatures now because the printer crashed last night and I had to restart the print. I have a BL touch but neve had to adjust my Z offset. I though it was correct as it was. I have a first layer example now because I printed with a skirt which tuned out to be a silly outline of the part thats not even connected to the print
The skirt is a helpful tool if you’re generally comfortable with your adhesion. The small outline uses up the little bit of filament still in the extruder from the previous print (I think of it like when turning on the shower and that blast of cold water comes out that was already in the hose before the new hot water starts filtering out). If your skirt isn’t sticking, it’s a great sign your bed is off in the area you’re likely printing and can save you a headache.
Once you think you have your bed properly leveled use a bed level printout (ie. like from CHEP) which is a bunch of concentric squares. It will help you fine tune the bed level.
That’s the first thing I did when I was done with the BL touch. It came out nice and the skirt also stuck well. but with the skirt I can measure the layer and maybe compare it to whatever is supposed to be ideal. it just looks ok, I don’t actually know how squashed down it should be.
Here is an artile I found at all3d. It has some nice pics as to what to look for in a perfect first layer
Awesome ill have a look!