That’s a great idea. I have 3 different hotend assemblies for my Prusa MK2. 4 if you included Titan Aero that I was going to use on my BLV CoreXY.
Just kept printing them as they (Prusa) released updates
Should take them out of glass cabinet and just use different nozzles.
I’d do like 0.4 brass, 0.6 Brass or stainless, and a 0.6 vanadium tool steel (NozzleX)
@Keith I think that is the most sensible use. It appears like you loose some of the Y or X on the prusas It is quite a bump it has. I often use much of the build plate so I would notice the loss. I also have almost no spare parts for the Prusa. I have a tendency when I need something to order an extra. I think I could build a whole new Sidewinder. I would have to buy whole extruder assemblys. I thought about it for the X1 but I have way too much $$ in it already.
On a side note I ordered a NozzleX. I never liked the hardened steel but that is different it is quite good. Does it truly resist wear as well as they claim? I print a fair bit of CF. It eats brass.
If I’m just printing part of a spool of carbon Fibre/ Wood / Glow in dark. I’ll leave brass nozzle on and swap it out after the print. When I commit myself to doing a whole roll or more, I toss in hardened or tool steel nozzle before the prints. The NozzleX are quite good. I ordered directly before 3DPC started to carry them.
I’m still on my first nozzle. Guess I need to print more often…
When you buy Chaftsman, Snap-On, Mac Tools.
You are buying Chrome plated Vanadium Steel.
The Chrome plating is to keep them shiny and stop them turning black oxide with age
So it’s that tough!!
@Keith do you have shots of the menus on the new Formbot Troodon ? I hear it is complex. The printer uses reprap firmware how different is it?
I am considering the Voron kit, Formbot Troodon, or the rat rig . Still researching.
NO Problem Bud, I’ll Get PJ to send to you
@Keith thanks ! I seems to be the big complaint the menus are complex. Complex and different are not necessarily the same. It isn’t marline so I am wondering if the menu complaints are just because it is not what has become common.
Any idea if the prusa mini bondtech extruder or heatbrake will come back in stock?
We’ve been having Problem getting parts from Europe(E3d + others) Getting parts from Bondtech has also been hard recently 
wonder if it uses the MK8 nozzle, Looks like it might be using the same nozzle from the B1.
There’s 2 variants. one is single heat break and other is x2
The Mixing head one uses custom very large nozzle, you remove with pin pliers, or pin spanner
Hmmm. I love the concept and it’s tempting, but the custom nozzle is worrying. How much do they cost and how many sources are there for them?
Great question. Availability, hmmm .
There’s got to be something similar.
I liked the Kraken and Chimera because it used standard E3D V6 nozzles
Thats pretty cool. I guess you’d get like a rainbow colour with that? I’m not sure I’d have use for that id want the 2 and 3 colouur one for making guards with warnings on them. Id emboss letters with the second contrasting colour and may e a pictographs in a third colour. Id have to see how well it works.
I think, conceptually, you’d have a programmable [insert proper word here] of colours. I wanted to say “spectrum” but the full spectrum would involve a mix of Cyan, Magenta and Yellow. OK, so my knowledge of colour theory sucks to the point where I don’t even know the correct terms, but the point is, you could use, let’s say, White and Red and have all the colours that run between pure red, through all the shades of pink to pure white.
It’s one step above a dual nozzle system in that you don’t just choose between filament A and filament B but you can blend them on the fly. Of course, the downside to this is that the nozzle itself will need to be purged if you need a rapid transition between colours.
That will be cool tp see how well that works. You could get red green and blue filament and make any colour
Actually red, green and blue are the primary additive colours - the colours you would use when mixing light. That works for a computer monitor which generates its own light, but for 3D printing, you would be looking at something more akin to a colour laser printer: cyan, magenta and yellow.
Lego is right, and black. Cyan magenta and yellow mixed give a ugly brown colour you need the black to get the dark values correct. In reality it would take a ton of balancing to get it to work.
I just got a shudder down my spine trying to figure out how long that calibration process would take.
Im just glad i dont have to pay +$50 for my magenta filament if all i want is to 3d print in black XD
